I love mosques; so much so
that I include visiting mosques in my travel itineraries, where possible.
It all started two years
ago in Bali when a friend and I, spending the New Year on the island, decided
to venture some 200 km to Singaraja to look for what is said to be the oldest
mosque there.
It was on the eve of the New
Year that we set out on our journey there. We had googled the night before,
looking for places to go to, when we asked ourselves, “Where is the oldest
mosque in Bali?”
We had read about Masjid
Agung Jami’ in Singaraja and the oldest handwritten Quran kept at the mosque. The
Quran was dated 1830s and handwritten by I Gusti Ngurah Ketut Jelantik Celagi,
a Hindu royalty who converted to Islam following a civil war then. It is still
legible despite the years. The handwriting is flawless.
We were told by the imam of Masjid Agung Jami' that the Hindu prince had studied Islam under the tutelage of one Haji Muhammad Yusuf Saleh. One of the conditions he imposed on his students was that they have to write the entire Quran by hand after they have completed their study.
So, imagine my excitement
when I received in the mail this book, “Masjid – Selected Mosques from the
Islamic World”, from ATSA Architects chief executive officer Azim A Aziz.
We were told by the imam of Masjid Agung Jami' that the Hindu prince had studied Islam under the tutelage of one Haji Muhammad Yusuf Saleh. One of the conditions he imposed on his students was that they have to write the entire Quran by hand after they have completed their study.
The oldest mosque is called Masjid Kuno, now located behind some houses, in Singaraja. The old Quran was originally kept here but moved to the other mosque after floods hit the area. |
Masjid Agung Jami' is where the oldest Quran is kept |
The oldest Quran on the island, dated 1830s, written by a Hindu royalty who converted to Islam |
I first met him when I
interviewed Datuk Baharuddin Abu Kassim, the architect of the National Mosque
some two weeks ago.
I could use it as a guide
as it lists 112 mosques all over the world, including 15 in Malaysia.
The 800-page treatise has
the trappings of a coffee table book, generally described as “an oversize,
expensive, and usually illustrated book suitable for displaying, as on a coffee
table”.
Only, this particular one
is an encyclopaedia of sort, with monographs (detailed and documented
architectural drawings), photographs and architectural background information
on the mosques.
Azim said he started
putting together information about other mosques in the country as well as
overseas when ATSA Architects was appointed to design the Cyberjaya mosque.
While researching on the
history of mosque architecture, he could not find any written materials that he
could refer to. Books that were readily available were either outdated or out
of print.
Azim started planning the
book with just 50 mosques but as he dug deeper into the subject matter, he
found more and more interesting mosques the world over.
Some of the mosques are in
countries where the official religion is not Islam like Thailand, Singapore and
China. These countries were once in regions which were predominantly Muslim
territories.
Azim also intended the
book to be a study on the history of Islam and mosque architecture since 622,
which is the first Hijrah year.
The first mosque featured
in the book, Al-Masjid Al-Haram in Makkah, dates back to 2130 BC. It spreads
over 32 pages of photographs, monographs and text. It covers the initial
construction of the mosque up to its planned expansion in 2020.
It is interesting to note
that throughout its expansion over four eras – Abbasid, Umayyad, Ottoman and
Saudi – the Al-Masjid Al-Haram was and is still void of the onion-shaped domes
which have become synonymous with mosques and Islam.
The onion-shaped domes are
part of what is known as Mughal architecture. It came into being during the
rise of Islam in the Indian subcontinent in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries.
Azim’s research showed
that most mosques in the country featured a pyramid-shaped roof in the centre,
often said to follow a structure from a Hindu-style religious architecture
found mainly in Java.
It is also said that the
construction of these earlier mosque was influenced by the use of Chinese
carpenters brought in from China to build in Malaya, Java, Sumatera and the
surrounding areas.
The book also revealed
that the Kampung Laut Mosque in Kota Baru, Kelantan is not the oldest mosque in
the country. That title in fact belonged to the Tengkera Mosque in Malacca,
which was built in 1728, two years before the Kampung Laut mosque.
Azim said they could not
find any concrete or specific dates for the Kampung Laut Mosque.
“Most of the legitimate
websites cited that the Kampung Laut Mosque was built in the 18th century. From
our findings, the closest date that we obtained was year 1730, while Masjid
Tengkera was on 1728. The two-year difference is very close,” he said.
The Malacca mosque was
considered as the state’s state mosque before the Al Azim state mosque was
built in 1990. The Tengkera Mosque is also listed as a heritage building by the
National Heritage Deaprtment of Malaysia in 1976.
If history is to be traced
through the existence of mosque, the mosque was built during the Dutch colonial
period following the relaxation of the rule on freedom of worship of
non-Protestant Christian faiths. The design of the Tengkera Mosque, which
incorporates traditional elements of Javanese and Sumatran architecture, bears
testament to the presence of Islam in Malaysia for six centuries.
The structure of Tengkera
mosque as seen today dates back to 1780, when the first recorded restoration of
the mosque took place.
The book also covered the
National Mosque, which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year.
The ‘’modernist, international style” mosque was described as progressive for
its time back then.
Azim was barely four
months old when the National Mosque opened in 1965. At the age of 22, he served as intern to
Datuk Baharuddin Abu Kassim, the man who designed the international style
National Mosque.
Azim will soon publish a
book on Malaysian mosque architecture, from the earliest
surviving mosque to the present.
“We are working with five
higher institutions to publish a Malaysian mosque architecture monograph that
has not been done before.
“There is a real need to
understand how mosque typologies originate and the various styles that
influence the architecture. With these monographs, many other architects the
world over can benefit from it.
“As a developing Muslim
country, we have are very fortunate to have the opportunity to design mosque of
the future to express our very own modern progressive mosque architecture.
“This can lead the way or
influence mosque designs throughout the world,” he said.
Describing himself as a
modernist in his architectural thinking, he wants to rethink the ways of
designing a mosque to not only withhold its traditional values but also to
reflect a progressive Islamic architecture.
It must also be
sustainable and meets the needs of the modern Muslim congregation.
The review I wrote on "Masjid - Selected Mosques of the Islamic World" in PULSE of Life & Times dated September 4, 2015 |
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